Josep i Pau “Synergy” Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

“woodsy graphite mixed with classic minty black fruit”

What Old World Cabernet do you pick to represent the old world in a box all about the transition from new to old world? For me, the criteria is very strict. A wine must show varietal typicity, and be balanced, pure and clean. It can’t feel overly wrought, or be pumped up with excessive colorings and additives. I had first looked to Bordeaux for a wine to showcase old world Cabernet Sauvignon, but didn’t taste anything super compelling. It was surprisingly this delicious wine from Catalunya that caught my attention.

Catalunya has a long history growing French grapes. For one, the Catalan language spans the border of both France and Spain, so there’s speakers of the Catalan language in both countries. In Catalonian regions like Priorat and Penedès, Cabernet Sauvignon grapes have been planted for more than a century, so this isn’t some brand new project.

Josep i Pau is made by Rosell Miir, a tiny family winery based in the Penedès region of Catalunya, near Barcelona. The name is a reference to Pau the son and Josep the father, who run the winery together and collaborated on this project. The vineyards at Rosell Miir are farmed organically and the wines are made in a low-intervention, chemical-free manner. 

This wine comes from 30-year old Cabernet vines in the Penedès, where many vineyards are either in sight of the ocean or at least close to it. These cool, salty breezes help keep the temperature reasonably moderate in an otherwise dry and hot region. Cabernet loves heat but also loves a slowed-down ripening process. 

I picked this wine because it’s unapologetically Cabernet. It telegraphs everything I love about the grape: woodsy graphite notes mixed with classic minty black fruit. It’s coarse, but in a very charming and approachable way. I love the tart tang of the finish–people forget that Cabernet is a relatively high-acid grape, which makes it extremely food friendly.